Birds in paradise

By: Ken Hupanda, Kalayaan Municipal Tourism Officer

As a vital part of my job working for tourism development in the West Philippine Sea, I have been blessed with the opportunity to visit the islands of the Kalayaan Island Group.
Before my first visit to this place 2 years ago, I have heard stories from a very few individuals who have been to this remote island with a very unique feature. I can barely paint a picture in my mind of how an island can be heavily populated by birds that the sky above it looks covered with a black fog if viewed from a distance.

Geographically located around 300 kilometers east of mainland Palawan, is one of the gems of the Kalayaan Island Group-Lawak Island. Free from intruders for many years until today, the small island has since been inhabited by migratory birds. Although at least 4 bird species of were observed in the island, Sooty Terns are the most numerous. These birds have duck-like feet, white feathers and black soot, hence its name.

During my first visit in the island during the summer of 2022, I was treated into a spectacle of wildlife encounter, as close as it can be! From our vessel, we have to board a small rubber boat to easily access the island’s shores through its fringing reef. Approaching the beach, some birds would already fly above us, seemingly welcoming us to their world. The colorful corals, clear waters and powdery white sand form a perfect background for the real show.

It did not have to be long before I realized that I am in another world. Thousands of Sooty Terns with their distinctive, almost defeaning “squeaky” sound will leave anybody speechless at first sight. I have to hold my breath for a couple of seconds and wonder how lucky am I to be able to witness this with my own eyes?

I have never felt so foreign as a human being in any place that I have visited. The Sooties have really built an empire in this island. The small swamp and grassy area serves as their nesting ground but it did not stop a lot of them to lay their eggs on the sandy shore. I was also able to see small balls of feathers running around-chicks trying to hide under their protective parents.

Since then, I have returned to Lawak Island several times but it does not fail to leave me spellbound every time. While this article is being written, the Lawak Island Critical Habitat Management Plan is being finalized. This will ensure that this piece of paradise gets valued the way it should. Tour packages to the Kalayaan Island Group are available for anybody who is interested to experience this once in a lifetime adventure. You may visit the Facebook Page: Spratly Islands, Kalayaan Tourism to learn more, or send us an email at spratlyskalayaantourism@gmail.com